Just the Tonik: Dormeuil Tonik at Nino’s, London
These beautiful rolls of cloth are Dormeuil Tonik. You might never have heard of this cloth before –I hadn’t until recently. But a little searching on the internet and you’ll soon realise that this particular cloth, from this particular cloth merchant, has quite the following.
There is some dispute amongst the mod and tailoring community as to how ‘Tonik’ is actually spelt. While it is often written as Tonik that is in fact the trade man for the cloth first woven by Dormeuil in 1958. True Mods claim it was always called Tonic and you may well see that printed in other locations. But common and professional opinion alike agree that real deal is Dormeuil Tonik. The family still own the Dormeuil company, based in Paris, but the cloth itself is woven in Huddersfield, England.
A mix of wool and Mohair, in appearance the first thing you’ll notice is the shine, a result of the Mohair. Next there is the texture, more solid -slightly stiff even- to the touch than even the heaviest pure wool cloths you’ll come across, it is that solidity which means it’s not prone to wrinkles and provides a great drape. It all makes for a great travel suit when you want to arrive crisp and sharp. It’s also an ideal cloth something for those special occasions when something a little bit different and more luxuriant is called for.
My first chance to see this cloth in the flesh came courtesy of Nino’s when I popped in recently to choose the cloth for latest bespoke suit project –my original selection having been discontinued. He has quite a number of interesting rolls of this special Dormeuil cloth, including some rather appealing blues (pictured) and some light browns and beiges which would make a rather striking spring/ early summer suit.
I was very tempted by these batches of cloth but on this occasion decided to stick to my original plan for a Donegal. However, I have some thoughts on Mohair and I’ll be sharing those in my next post.
Nino Santoro: [email protected]